Pilgrimage is a strange word for 2024, don’t you think? I immediately imagine crowds walking long distances in sandaled feet several thousand years ago. But the word seems to be having a resurgence-surely you know someone who is planning to walk the Camino in Spain? When I recently went on a pilgrimage to Iona, an island in Western Scotland, I had to look up the definition - a journey to foreign lands with the purpose of visiting a shrine or holy place.
Iona, 3 miles long and 1 ½ miles wide, has been considered a spiritual oasis since the time of the Dark Ages, when Druids adopted it as a religious center. Its Christian roots go back to the arrival of St. Columba in 563, who was on a pilgrimage himself to escape brutal fighting in Ireland. Pilgrims have been coming to Iona since this time and today the island is alive with spiritual seekers of various types.
My pilgrimage had the purpose of studying with John Philip Newell, Celtic writer, historian and prophet. Our mornings were spent with teaching, prayer and conversation and the afternoons were free for our own interests. It was a lovely, expansive, freeing schedule.
Part of the pilgrimage idea was just getting to Iona from Maine: a 4 hour bus trip to Boston, flights to Dublin and then Glasgow, 3 hour train to Oban, where I spent the night,
a ferry to Mull, bus ride of 40 miles across Mull on a one-lane road, and another ferry to Iona. No wonder guests are so grateful to arrive!
Below is my plane from Dublin to Glasgow-do you see what stopped me in surprise and a bit of fear?
Somehow the one lane road across Mull and the prop-driven plane seem go together - an unwillingness to discard what works? That’s something we in the US are not so familiar with.
Perhaps if I were a poet I could better describe the wonder of seven days on this island with one foot in heaven and one on earth. I felt connected - to the Spirit, to those in my group, to the natural world, to myself. And to history and the thousands of feet that have walked these paths before. I brought all that home with me, aware that I did not have to be on Iona for those connections. Can I keep that going back at home?
I’ll leave you with a few photos…better than lots of words.
Island of Staffa, home to thousands of puffins.
Ruins of an ancient nunnery on Iona.
Island of Mull
Fingal's Cave, which inspired Mendelssohn's overture.
The center of it all, The Abbey.